Laying Out the Bathroom of Your Dreams!
Very few redesign projects are as exciting as a bathroom remodel. There are countless options in front of you, but a contractor with deep supplier relationships and full-time design pros can help you sort through the choices.
Remodel America can walk you through a bathroom renovation planning like no other Charlotte-area remodeling firm. We’ll begin by looking at your existing floor space to see if your bathtub and shower is meeting every need. We make it fun to look at renovation ideas!
Shower enclosures are amazing these days and we have a huge selection of both bathroom tile and vinly flooring to complete the look. Have you seen the latest in shower closures, shower heads? Perhaps you’d be interesting in the new Vitamin-C shower heads, an emerging healthy alternative. We have an entire line of bathroom hot tubs, too.
Restroom Vanities and Countertop Choices
Bathroom vanities are a specialty for us. Available in a wide variety of stunning styles, the cabinets and granite or quartz countertops are more convenient and stronger than ever. Let us demonstrate the options and put together a combination that maximizes what you get from your floor plan.
We also have a beautiful selection of low-slip and no-slip bath stickers, safety grab bars, shower chairs/seats and raised commode seating.
In-Law Additions / Parent Renovation
And if you need a bathroom addition, or even a bedroom addition, to accomodate an aging relative, we can design a renovation in quick order to help you avoid a crisis. Our team is friendly and we face the very same family issues that you do, so your happiness and convenience is important to us.
Home Remodeling | Room Additions | Roofing | Siding | Window Replacement
China Grove, North Carolina
Bathroom Remodeling Companies
Space the studs in the center of the shower about 12 in. apart to leave room for the shower valve and showerhead.
The wall behind the toilet can be almost any height. For a standard toilet height of 15 in., make the wall a minimum height of 43 in. If you’d like a higher toilet, make the wall that much higher.
Or, make the wall go all the way to the ceiling.
We built a short wall to conserve space and to create a shelf and a mirror alcove. The wall at the opposite end of the shower can be any height as well. We made it the same height as the toilet/sink wall so we could line up the accent tile and make a convenient shower shelf.
Nail the bottom plate to the floor and the top plate to the ceiling.
Then mark the positions of the shower base, toilet and sink.
Lay out and toenail the wall studs into position 60-1/4 in. (or the length of your shower base plus 1/4 in.) away from the first wall.
Tie all the short studs to the existing studs at the top and bottom with 6 x 11-in.
Plywood gussets screwed to every stud on the short wall. Keep gussets on the outside of the chair carrier space so they won’t interfere with installation.
Install backer boards as needed to support cement board or drywall. If you have plastic, you’re lucky, because they’re easier to cut and join than metal pipes.
Cast iron lines need to be “snapped” (cut) with a soil pipe cutter, which rents for $12 to $25 a day.
Old threaded galvanized pipes that object to being unscrewed can be cut out with a reciprocating saw or hacksaw.
If you have metal pipes, it’s best to replace them with plastic ones where they tie into the main stack.
A knowledgeable plumbing clerk at the home center can help you select the correct adapters for the conversion. B). Then position the sink and center the drain behind it, 19 in. up from the floor. Connect the drain to the main stack with a 3 x 1-1/2 in. tee.
Pilot holes and saw out a 4-1/2 in. hole for the toilet drain.
Nail in 2×6 blocking to anchor the rear toilet mounting brackets. Fit the chair carrier in the opening to check the location of the drain hole and the position of the mounting block. The front surface of the framework should be flush with the face of the studs.
Dry-fit the PVC piping assembly for the wall-hung toilet, shower trap and sink. After you’re satisfied that the dimensions are correct, solvent-weld all the joints in the assembly and join it to the existing ABS main stack using a transition coupling. Toenail 2×6 blocks in the center of the shower 36 in. above the floor for the shower valve and 6 ft. 6 in. above the floor for the showerhead.
Position the valve block so the plastic mud guard on the mixing valve will be flush with the finished wall surface.
Attach the shower supply line and the hot and cold supply lines to the valve.
Clamp the valve body and shower supply line to the blocks with copper pipe straps. Run copper water supplies to the new locations for the sink and toilet.
The wall-mounted toilet shown here cannot be positioned directly behind the stack because there’s not room for the necessary elbows.
If your stack is more than 12 in. to the side of the existing toilet, you can keep the same location for the wall-hung toilet.
But if it’s directly behind it, you’ll need to swap the sink and toilet locations like we did. Black plastic (ABS) drain lines were very common in the past, but now the most readily available drain line material is white plastic PVC pipe. The vents for the sink and shower can be 1-1/2-in.
Pipes, but a toilet should be vented with at least 2-in. Make sure that the drain lines drop 1/4 in. for every foot of travel toward the main stack. House main lines will often be 3/4 in. Make the conversion before the new shutoff valves with a reducer tee.
Preassemble the shower valve by soldering copper nipples and the shower supply pipe to male adapters and screwing them into the shower valve before fastening the valve to the blocking.
That way you won’t damage the valve with heat from the soldering torch.